Friday, September 27, 2013

Antonio Who's Always Bien

It's Thursday, and I've been in Guatemala for ten days now. I'm halfway through my 9th day of Spanish school, and I'm spending my lunch break sitting on the roof of the school, where a table and chair have been set up, gazing out at Lake Atitlán. It's sunny and warm, which is rare for a September afternoon. I take my sweater off and hang it on the back of my chair.

Soon, Antonio comes up the stairs and joins me on the roof. He has come to gather the clothes from the line, anticipating the afternoon rain. "¿Cómos estás?" he asks me with a broad smile. It's become a sort of joke between us - the fact that both of us sneak up to the roof whenever we get the chance. "Bien, gracias," I answer in my hardly sufficient Spanish, "¿y tú?" "Estoy bien," he answers, still grinning madly. "Siempre estoy bien."

And it's true. Antonio is always bien. Antonio is always happy, always calm, always friendly. He is always working, always sweeping, always watering the plants, always cleaning the bathrooms. He is always deep in thought.

Antonio is always looking out the window when it rains. He is always opening doors for me. He is always drinking tea during his breaks. He takes a lot of breaks. It rains a lot.

Antonio has a wife and two daughters. Every morning he wakes up at 5:00 and goes for a run to Santa Catarina. He arrives at the Spanish school at 6:50 to unlock the doors. It takes Antonio ten minutes to walk to school.

Antonio always asks how I am. He always listens carefully and patiently as I slowly attempt to tell him in Spanish about my day. I always return the question. Antonio always tells me carefully and patiently in Spanish about his day.

Antonio's father couldn't afford to send him to school. When he was 16, Antonio left home to find work. He knocked on all of the doors on Calle Santander asking for work. No one would employ him unless he knew how to read and write. At age 18, Antonio left Panajachel to work in the fields of Guatemala.

Antonio got married when he was 21 and had a baby girl nine months later, whom he named Candelaria. When Candelaria was six years old, he asked her if she wanted to go to school. She said yes. He got a job as a janitor in a hotel, and Candelaria went to school.

When Candelaria finished primary school, Antonio asked her if she wanted to go to secondary school. Candelaria said she did. Antonio began working an extra shift at the hotel, and Candelaria went to secondary school.

Now, Candelaria is a teacher at the Spanish school where Antonio works as a janitor - she got him the job. His other daughter is a doctor in Venezuela.

When Antonio's father visited the Spanish school and saw his granddaughter, he dropped to his knees and apologized to Antonio for not sending him to school. Antonio had already forgiven him 40 years ago.

It's starting to rain, indicating that it's time for Antonio and me to get back to work. We descend the stairs leading down from the roof. I walk toward my classroom for my afternoon class. Antonio makes his way to the window with a cup of tea to watch the rain.

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Cars are for suckers. So are sidewalks. And umbrellas.

It's a typical Tuesday afternoon in Panajachel. The streets are bustling with pedestrians and bicyclists, cars and motorcycles, and tuk-tuks, the three-wheeled, bright red taxis that can take you anywhere in town for less than 75¢. That's right tourists, don't let them charge you 8 quetzales just because you're not from around here. I have a man on the inside, and he tells me that it's always 5Q - even for us.

Yes the town is alive in the afternoon, and that spirit will not be dampened by the rain that falls every day at about 5pm - just when everyone is on their way home from work. But rainy days are a strange sight in Pana, as behavior seems odd to the foreign eye. There are few cars and many people walking. Umbrellas are scarce among these many wet pedestrians. People trod through opaque puddles in their faux leather dress shoes instead of stepping around. Why, in a place where people expect rain at the same time every day, is everyone so wet?

Take note of the photo below. You may notice the narrowness of the street - this is Calle Principal, the "Main Street" of Pana. I stop at this exact location every day on my way home. Not to grab a bite to eat or to people watch, but because I have to stop to let a car or two pass before taking my turn walking up the hill. Everyone knows the routine. Pedestrians walk in the street because there are no sidewalks around. If a tuk-tuk comes by, you must close your umbrella so that it has room to pass by you. If a car comes, you must close your umbrella, step off the street and into a store, and wait for it to squeeze past, guided by a handful of men motioning and yelling at the driver. When the coast is clear, you may return to walking down the street, although you may have to close your umbrella a few more times to let one of the 107 tuk-tuks in Pana by.

And so, many people choose not to carry an umbrella with them because they know it will only be above their heads for a fraction of their walk home. Most people don't step around the puddles because they would be stepping into the middle of the street, soon to be run down by a tuk-tuk. And almost no one drives a car, because if you do, everyone hates you.

It's the rainy season here in Pana, and we love to get wet!

Thursday, September 19, 2013

A Series of "How To's" by Eliza

How to Shower in Guatemala
1. Clarify with la mama that the bucket sitting on the bathroom floor is, in fact, the "shower"
2. Intend to ask la mama to show you how to use it but instead, in your broken Spanish, ask her to "help you shower"
3. Clarify that you don't need help showering, you'll manage just fine on your own
4. Fill wash bucket with 2 parts cold water and 1 part boiling water
5. Actually fill it 3 parts cold water because the stove is being used to cook
6. Scoop water out of bucket with smaller bucket that may or may not have just been used as a water dish for the neighbor's dog
7. Pour freezing water over head
8. Repeat as necessary

How to Travel Home from School in the Rain
1. Get out umbrella
2. Put on waterproof shoes
3. Change into bathing suit
4. Open umbrella
5. Place umbrella upside down on full-blown river rushing down street
6. Sit in umbrella
7. Raft down river until final destination is reached

How to Have a Conversation in Spanish
1. Ask the person to please repeat what he or she just said
2. Apologize and ask him or her to repeat it again more slowly
3. Apologize again and ask him or her to repeat it just one more time
4. You can't ask a fourth time, gringo. Smile and nod.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

How I Got Into Guatemala

The following conversation has been translated from broken Spanish to broken English.

Customs officer: "You don't have a return ticket?"
Eliza: "No sir, I go to Guatemala for less than three months and after I travel to Peru."
CO: "What are you doing in Guatemala?"
Eliza: "I am going to study Spanish and do service."
CO: "You're not going to earn money?"
Eliza: "No sir."
CO: Points at ukulele in my hand. "Not even with that?"
Eliza: "No, it's not possible."
CO: "Why not?"
Eliza: "Because I am really really bad at it. Probably the worst in this airport, possibly in all of Guatemala."
CO: Laughs, stamps my passport, and waves me on.

Bienvenidos a Guatemala!

Friday, September 13, 2013

Introductions

Let me start off by introducing myself, the blogger whom many of you may call friend, family, or crazy. My name is Eliza Stein, and I not-so-secretly hate blogs. Welcome to my blog.

As many of you know, I am spending the 2013-2014 academic year traveling in Latin America. I am currently trying to convince myself that I chose to do this because of a desire to learn more about the world I will someday be blessed with the burden of fixing - you know, change my world view so that I can help change my world.

But we all know that the real reason I'm taking time off this year is because the person in the picture on the left (Eliza, age 4) appears to be all too similar to the person in the picture on the right (Eliza, age 18). And both of them seem to have some things to figure out before entering the real world (or at least that's what my teachers call college).

 

Friends, family, and my grandma's girlfriends, I invite you to join me on my journey as I uncover more and more reasons why the world we live in is magnificent, why the people we encounter are spectacular, and where I fit into this big, beautiful mess.